Tag Archives: sous vide
Finished lamb shank confit

Lamb shank confit: The results

When I decided to make lamb shank confit, the first question that occurred to me was, “What makes confit different from any other braise?” Once upon a time, I probably would have answered that it was the cooking medium, a confit being cooking in fat rather than a water-based liquid such as wine or stock. […]

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Lamb shank confit

Lamb shank confit

Earlier this week, I found myself with some extra lamb shanks, some rendered lamb fat, and some leftover curing mix from a recent batch of duck confit. There was only one thing to do: I coated the shanks with the salt mix, refrigerated them overnight, and rinsed them off and patted them dry. Then I […]

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Corned beef SV faceoff

Sous vide faceoff: Corned beef

As I was waiting for my beef brisket to cure for St. Patrick’s Day dinner this year, it occurred to me that I’d never cooked corned beef sous vide. When I tweeted that I was debating the relative merits of sous vide versus traditional stovetop braising, Michael Hay, chef of the Courtyard Restaurant, suggested that […]

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Sous Vide Professional

Is modernist cooking soulless?

A pair of companion interviews with Timothy Hollingsworth and Eli Kaimeh, chefs de cuisine of the French Laundry and Per Se, respectively, were making the rounds on social media last week. They both offer interesting insights into the cultures of two of the finest kitchens in North America, and are both very much worth reading. […]

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Sous vide squid

Calamari: It’s not just for the deep-fryer anymore

For years, the only way I’d ever experienced squid was in its fried form – a form that has long been a favourite of mine and my husband’s. So I still remember the first time I ever had grilled squid, because it was so different from my previous experiences and so, so delicious. It was […]

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Ramen bowl

Lucky Peach ramen part 2: Broth and garnish

If the noodles are the body of a bowl of ramen, the broth is its soul. There are lots of different styles of broths, from basic dashi to chicken stock to intense, pork-based tonkotsu, or any blend of the above. These are then seasoned with a tare or kaeshi sauce concentrate, which roughly determines the […]

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Chicken wing confit

Adaptation woes: Chicken wing confit

In light of my success with the duck confit recipe from Modernist Cuisine, I decided to try a variation that would allow me to serve the poultry on the bone, but in a small enough portion to be an appetizer. In other words, I decided to confit chicken wings. I started off by tweaking the […]

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Twice-Cooked Scallops

Twice-cooked scallops and twice-learned lessons

Another take-home lesson from the Ideas in Food classes was the importance of brining seafood. I’ve long known that it was important to brine some fish, especially salmon and arctic char, when cooking it sous vide, to prevent protein from coagulating on the surface in unsightly white puddles of goo, but I’d never really considered […]

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Wrapping halibut filets before poaching them sous vide

Ideas in Food in Ottawa: Intro to sous vide

In his 1998 Massey Lectures, entitled The Elsewhere Community, Canadian literary critic Hugh Kenner cites Ezra Pound as once having told him, “You have an ob-li-ga-tion to visit the great men of your own time.” I’ve tried to incorporate this thinking into my own way of living, so when I learned that Alex Talbot of […]

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Sous vide duck confit

Sous-vide duck confit

One of the most surprising and controversial discoveries I’ve heard of from the work on Modernist Cuisine is that duck confit doesn’t need to be cooked in fat. A team of professional chefs, when blind-tasting duck prepared different ways (including traditional confit, sous vide with a small amount of duck fat, and precision-steamed), couldn’t tell […]

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