Tag Archives: Restaurants


One of the funny things about being a stagiaire is that you don’t usually work a specific station. One minute you’re trimming elk tenderloins, the next you’re making an Italian meringue for buttercream. This certainly has its drawbacks: without being assigned to a particular set of dishes, it can feel like you have no “ownership” […]

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Kitchen lingo

As a translator, I continue to be fascinated by the specific language that develops in kitchens. Lately, I’ve been noticing a tendency to take nouns and turn them into verbs. I once had a lengthy discussion with a friend who’s a server about when a table of diners should be “breaded.” (After which, presumably, they’re […]

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On the road

I’m currently on the road, in Ottawa (where I enjoyed the “grilled cheese sloppy joe” pictured above at Art Is In bakery). I’ll be here for the entire month of March, staging at a number of restaurants. Rather than putting my blog on hold for that time, though, my goal is to try and post […]

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7. Foie Gras 2

Lunch at Eleven Madison Park

I’ve just returned from New York City, where I enjoyed a wonderful 4-hour lunch at Eleven Madison Park. As a rule, I don’t do restaurant reviews on my site. And what could I possibly say about EMP, except that it lived up to – and exceeded – my very high expectations? The food was creative, […]

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Menu creation, repetition and repetitiveness

One of the challenges I always face when coming up with a menu for dinner parties like the one I had recently is avoiding too much repetition. This is especially true because I’m working with other people’s recipes, and I try to adhere to them as closely as I can, substituting ingredients only when I […]

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5. Pork, grapefruit, sage, honey

Dinner party: March 24, 2012

When I did my big 6-course dinner party last month, I had originally invited my friends Laura and Mike, but they had to bow out at the last minute to deal with a sick child. Enough time has passed since then that I felt able to work up another menu of restaurant-level dishes for them. […]

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Sous Vide Professional

Is modernist cooking soulless?

A pair of companion interviews with Timothy Hollingsworth and Eli Kaimeh, chefs de cuisine of the French Laundry and Per Se, respectively, were making the rounds on social media last week. They both offer interesting insights into the cultures of two of the finest kitchens in North America, and are both very much worth reading. […]

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Granola ingredients

Eleven Madison Park Granola

I got a lot out of participating in last week’s Eleven Madison Park tribute dinner in Ottawa, but all of it was in intangible form. Really, there was only one tangible thing I wanted to take away, and I didn’t even manage that: a jar of Eleven Madison Park granola. The story goes that every […]

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An Eleven Madison Park tribute, take 2

It’s always nice when a happy confluence makes it convenient to participate in several great activities in a short period. Such was the case on my recent trip to Ottawa. My husband wanted to go in order to do some research and celebrate his birthday, I wanted to go for dinner at Atelier (especially in […]

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Marc Lepine

Congratulations to Marc Lepine and Atelier!

I’ve been deliberately holding off on this one so I could get the above photo last night, but I’d like to add my voice to the chorus offering congratulations to Marc Lepine and the staff of Atelier for their gold-medal finish in the Canadian Culinary Championships last weekend! You can (and should) read the official […]

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