Tag Archives: modernist cuisine
KC BBQ sauce

Not-so-modern Modernist Cuisine: KC BBQ A-OK

One of the stops on my road trip across the US last month was Kansas City. Naturally, this meant we had to sample the local barbecue, which we did at a couple of locations, namely Jack Stack and Woodyard BBQ. We tried a range of the offerings, including brisket, “burnt ends,” and pork ribs, as […]

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Apples and Malic Acid

Bobbing for apple flavour: Seasoning with malic acid

It’s become a common refrain that acidity is as important to balancing the seasoning of a dish as salt is. Just as salt, properly used, doesn’t necessarily make food taste “salty,” acid doesn’t necessarily make food taste sour; the word usually used is “brightness.” Acid is especially useful in balancing sweetness, which can lurk in […]

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MC mac and cheese

Modernist Cuisine’s mac and cheese

My first plan for my newly acquired powders – and one of the main reasons I picked up some carrageenan – was to finally try the mac and cheese recipe from Modernist Cuisine, arguably the most famous and frequently made dish from the book. The recipe uses sodium citrate and carrageenan to make a cheese […]

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BBQ Chicken

Not-so-modernist Modernist Cuisine: Kentucky barbecue sauce

When I offered my husband his choice of the various barbecue sauces in Modernist Cuisine and started listing them, he stopped me as soon I said “Kentucky.” “That one. You should make that one.” I looked at him. “Why?” “Does it have bourbon in it?” “Yeah.” “That’s why.” There are at least a handful of […]

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Fluid gel 1

Fluid gel

A common sauce-making technique used in contemporary recipes is the fluid gel. A fluid gel is a substance that behaves as a solid when still, but moves like a fluid when exposed to enough outside force, a property known as “shear-thinning” or “thixotropy”. The textbook example of a shear-thinning fluid is ketchup: in the bottle, […]

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IIF Preserved Lemons

Ideas in preserved lemons

When I said recently that there is very little variation among most of the recipes I have for preserved lemons, I was deliberately omitting one specific recipe from that generalization: the one in Ideas in Food. Obviously, the main problem with the traditional recipe for preserved lemons is the amount of time they take. It’s […]

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Sous Vide Professional

Is modernist cooking soulless?

A pair of companion interviews with Timothy Hollingsworth and Eli Kaimeh, chefs de cuisine of the French Laundry and Per Se, respectively, were making the rounds on social media last week. They both offer interesting insights into the cultures of two of the finest kitchens in North America, and are both very much worth reading. […]

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Aerated chocolate

Vacuum-set foams: Aerated chocolate

It’s funny sometimes, the things that give me the impetus to move projects off of my “to do” list and drive me into the kitchen. In this case, it was Halloween. After trick-or-treating was over, our basket of treats held a few leftover Aero bars, which I had always thought my husband disliked. When I […]

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Caramelized Squash Soup

Caramelized vegetable soup redux

Autumn is undeniably soup season, not to mention squash season, which may explain why my speculation on soups made from caramelized vegetables other than carrots went so quickly from “I wonder if it would work?” to “What’s for dinner?” I started by seeding, peeling and dicing a small butternut squash, and weighing the flesh. I […]

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Caramelized Carrot Soup

Modernist Cuisine: Caramelized carrot soup

It seems that one of the most popular recipes so far from Modernist Cuisine is the caramelized carrot soup. This probably has something to do with the accessibility of the recipe: it requires no special ingredients, and the only special equipment it needs is a pressure cooker. (OK, there’s the whole question of the centrifuge […]

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