Tag Archives: from scratch

Solid + solid = liquid: Chocolate shell topping for ice cream

When I was growing up, one summer treat I really looked forward to was visits to Dairy Queen. I favoured Blizzards (to this day, I prefer ice cream with mix-ins), but I thought dipped cones were fascinating, even though I never ordered them. How did they put ice cream – upside-down, no less – into [...]

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Home-roasted coffee no. 3

With the return of warmer weather, I took some time last weekend to roast another batch of coffee with my heat gun. I do all my roasting outside so I don’t have to worry about containing the chaff, but that does kind of limit my options in the winter, even a mild winter like we [...]

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Japanese hot pots: yosenabe

It has long been a source of frustration to me that sushi is so much better known than any other aspect of Japanese cuisine. Even in a big city like Toronto, the ratio of sushi restaurants to other types of Japanese restaurants is about a zillion to one. Japan’s culinary traditions are so much broader [...]

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Eleven Madison Park Granola

I got a lot out of participating in last week’s Eleven Madison Park tribute dinner in Ottawa, but all of it was in intangible form. Really, there was only one tangible thing I wanted to take away, and I didn’t even manage that: a jar of Eleven Madison Park granola. The story goes that every [...]

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Pure purée, eh?

It’s a well-known adage that when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail. So naturally, ever since getting my new Vitamix high-speed blender, I’ve been looking for excuses to puree things. One of the benefits of a blender like the Vitamix is the size of the container: no more “transfer to [...]

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Coffee roast no. 2

Half a pound of green coffee doesn’t last that long, especially when you consider that it loses weight in the roasting process! Fortunately, I don’t rely exclusively on coffee I’ve roasted myself, so after I used up the beans from my first home-roasting run, I went back to store-bought for a few days. Last weekend, [...]

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A curdling tale: Home-cultured sour cream

Continuing with my curiosity about fermented milk products, but lacking the time for a full-fledged cheese project, I decided to take on something a little more set-it-and-forget-it: sour cream. In the idyllic past, cows would be milked and the milk would be left to stand, allowing the cream to separate and rise to the top. [...]

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The green and the brown: Coffee roasting at home

It is one of my fundamental beliefs that most foodstuffs can be made successfully at home. The results may not be the best example of their type – there’s a reason specialist producers exist – but they are at least consumable and, with a little understanding of the physical and chemical reactions involved, often very [...]

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Damson crumble cake: The other half of liqueur-making

Once you’ve made your damson gin and used it in a Modern No. 2, you’ll be left with the other half of your project’s materials: gin-soaked damsons. I’ve always struggled to use these up somehow. I find booze-soaked fruit to be fine in small quantities, but its appeal fades quickly. For some reason, the fruit [...]

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Last-ditch cheese: Ricotta salata

I glossed over it before, but my first attempt to make mozzarella was not so much a success. There are ways to draw success out of failure, however. Enthusiastic, I had decided to make a full batch of mozzarella, and bought 4 litres of organic cow’s milk to that end. Using both Ideas in Food and [...]

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