Tag Archives: Fergus Henderson
Lamb's tongues and turnips

Fifth quarter cooking: Lamb’s tongues

I think I may be lucky that I didn’t eat any offal when I was growing up. As a child of North American culture, I fear I would have faced liver as an obligation to be dreaded. Instead, I can now approach the fifth quarter with a wide-open mind. And the contemporary culinary culture in which […]

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Mincemeat for Christmas

The Christmas season is a time of tradition, whether our own family traditions or wider cultural traditions that connect us with our forebears. Foods and drinks that are otherwise defunct come out of hiding to adorn festive tables, and people nostalgically quaff eggnog while partaking of goose and chestnuts, fruitcakes and mincemeat pies. I’ve always […]

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Beef Stew with Pickled Walnuts

Trotter Gear: Something gelatinous is a foot

It’s no secret that I’m a fan of the “fifth quarter” in meat cooking. Historically, the organs, heads, hooves and other unusual parts of food animals were the province of the poor, but nowadays these cuts are more likely to serve as a marker of one’s rarefied taste – an icon of “true foodieness.” Well […]

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