Kayahara.ca

I’ve wanted to make veal stock for a long time. I’ve probably wanted to make veal stock ever since I first read The French Laundry Cookbook. I definitely wanted to make it after reading some of Michael Ruhlman’s writings on it. And, recently, reading the Eleven Madison Park cookbook and seeing some of the recipes [...]

Even after the meal was over and the positive reviews were in, my trouble with the Eleven Madison Park gougères continued to bother me. Gougères are just pâte à choux (similar to the pastry used for cream puffs and éclairs), with the addition of some grated cheese. I’ve made pâte à choux several times before; [...]

When I said I would be cooking out of the Eleven Madison Park cookbook “soon,” I neglected to mention that it would be as part of another “tribute” dinner, this time hosted by chef Murray Wilson of Atelier. Murray’s affinity for “EMP” dates back to 2008, when he dined there. That meal, and a subsequent [...]