Tag Archives: confectionery
Cereal Milk Truffle-1

No crying over spilt milk: Cereal milk truffles

Last weekend was the annual eGullet chocolate and confectionery workshop, held this year at Niagara College in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The first night of the workshop usually functions as a sort of “show and tell,” where the chocolatiers and confectioners who have gathered from across North America share samples of the treats they’ve been working on […]

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Next Beet PDF

Beet pâte de fruit

After making the beet fluid gel for my take on red velvet cake, I found myself with quite a bit of beet juice left over. Fortunately, I had a recipe handy to help me use it up: beet pâte de fruit. Or should that be “pâte de légume”? It may sound strange, but beet pâte […]

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Pressure cooker DDL

Pressure-cooker dulce de leche

Interest in pressure cookers may be on the rise in large part because of their modernist applications, but in some parts of the world it’s never waned: cooks from Morocco to Mexico have long relied on them as a labour-saving device for preparing traditional dishes in a fraction of the traditional time. So it came […]

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Knocking Out

A chocolate-coated weekend

Last weekend, I had the opportunity to attend a chocolate and confectionery workshop organized by Kerry Beal, The Chocolate Doctor, at Niagara College in Niagara-on-the-Lake. As you may know from some of my previous posts, I don’t consider myself to be an especially adept chocolatier, so I always relish the opportunity to get some practice […]

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Guinness PDF

Modernist Cuisine: Guinness “pâte de fruit”

This one is just for fun, and is probably exactly the sort of thing that drives many anti-modernist cuisine types up the wall. For one thing, it’s a preparation that has scare quotes in its name! For another, it’s not exactly what you would call an… intuitive preparation. It is, however, exactly what it sounds […]

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Sponge Toffee

Foamed candy: Sponge toffee

It always irks me when people make the sweeping declaration that “foams” are a fad that will soon fade. While this may be true of some types of foams – although even there, I’m not convinced – foam is a structure that cuts across all categories of food, savoury and sweet. Take, for example, the […]

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Candied Orange Zest

On the importance of garnish

“Do you want to make the candied orange zest garnish?” my husband asked me, about our next round of truffles, filled with an orange butter ganache. “Why not?” I replied. “The devil is in the details, and candied orange zest will make them that much nicer. Anyway, candied orange zest is easy.” And so it […]

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Rosewater Jellies

Holiday confectionery

I may still have a thing or two to learn about tempering chocolate, but I’m pretty good at sugar-based confectionery. Every year at Christmas, I make these lemon and rosewater jellies – a sort of faux-Turkish delight, since they’re set with gelatin rather than starch – from an old Bon Appétit recipe that’s inexplicably missing […]

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