Pressure-Cooked Oatmeal

Pressure-cooked oatmeal

Until now, I have always made oatmeal exclusively with rolled oats; although I know connoisseurs swear by the steel-cut variety, it always seemed like too much of a time investment for a breakfast food. (And yes, I know I’m saying this as someone who has cooked his own English muffins for eggs Benedict.) But if […]

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Akita Hotpot

’nother nabe

Another recent nabe that I made, this one called the “Akita Hunter Hot Pot.” The defining characteristic of this hot pot is a rice preparation called kiritanpo. It’s made by cooking rice, mashing it up, forming it into a cylinder (around a chopstick or similar) and grilling or broiling it before adding it to the […]

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Dutch oven bread

Bread-baking and the value of repetition

I’ve been giving a lot of thought lately to the value of repetition in the kitchen, of doing the same task over and over and over again. Repeating it until you’re completely sick of doing it, then repeating it some more until you can do it in your sleep. And, ideally, becoming a little bit […]

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FNC Esquire

Friday Night Cocktail: The Esquire Formula

It may sound like the title of a bad spy novel, but the “Esquire formula” is really just shorthand for an interesting “universal” cocktail ratio proposed by Esquire magazine. The idea is that, armed with this ratio and one secret ingredient, you can make a tasty cocktail from pretty much any other ingredients you have […]

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Khao soi 1

Memories of Chiang Mai: Khao soi with homemade coconut milk

I spent a good chunk of December in Southeast Asia, specifically Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Hanoi. Needless to say, we had a variety of delicious foods, but one of the dishes that stood out for me the most was the Chiang Mai specialty of khao soi. Khao soi is part of the continuum of Asian […]

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Black Cod Nabe 1

Nabemono for New Year’s

In keeping with my annual tradition of starting off the year on a Japanese-cuisine kick, I made my first nabe of the year last week – a fitting dinner given how cold and snowy it’s been. I turned to Japanese Hot Pots, which is the indispensable reference on the subject, and used the recipe for […]

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Warka: Not worth it

When I made my bisteeya, I used phyllo for the pastry, cutting it into rounds to layer the pie. But traditionally, bisteeya is made using an altogether different type of pastry known as “warka” (and, transliteration being what it is, sometimes spelled warqa, warkha or ouarka). The original method for making warka is to take […]

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Moroccan cooking is underappreciated, in my estimation. While couscous and merguez have, to a certain extent, become pantry staples, and tagines are far from unknown to even the most novice foodies, the cuisine as a whole is underrepresented in North America. I’ve taken an interest in Moroccan food for a long time – longer than […]

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KC BBQ sauce

Not-so-modern Modernist Cuisine: KC BBQ A-OK

One of the stops on my road trip across the US last month was Kansas City. Naturally, this meant we had to sample the local barbecue, which we did at a couple of locations, namely Jack Stack and Woodyard BBQ. We tried a range of the offerings, including brisket, “burnt ends,” and pork ribs, as […]

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Ice cream pie

Cornier and cornier: The other uses for Momofuku corn cookies

Having gone to the trouble and expense of making the Momofuku Milk Bar corn cookies, I figured I might as well make the Lucky Peach recipes that use them as an ingredient, too. After all, it’s not like I’m going to have a regular supply of these on hand at all times. The first of […]

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