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Corned beef SV faceoff

Sous vide faceoff: Corned beef

As I was waiting for my beef brisket to cure for St. Patrick’s Day dinner this year, it occurred to me that I’d never cooked corned beef sous vide. When I tweeted that I was debating the relative merits of sous vide versus traditional stovetop braising, Michael Hay, chef of the Courtyard Restaurant, suggested that […]

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Marc Lepine

Congratulations to Marc Lepine and Atelier!

I’ve been deliberately holding off on this one so I could get the above photo last night, but I’d like to add my voice to the chorus offering congratulations to Marc Lepine and the staff of Atelier for their gold-medal finish in the Canadian Culinary Championships last weekend! You can (and should) read the official […]

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Toshikoshi soba

Toshikoshi soba: Noodles for New Year’s

Every culture has its New Year’s Eve dishes that are traditional for bringing luck in the coming year: in my family it was mincemeat, in Italian culture it’s cotechino and lentils, and in Japanese culture it’s toshikoshi (“year-crossing”) soba noodles. Although they have a special name, there is no specific recipe for toshikoshi soba; you […]

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Mincemeat for Christmas

The Christmas season is a time of tradition, whether our own family traditions or wider cultural traditions that connect us with our forebears. Foods and drinks that are otherwise defunct come out of hiding to adorn festive tables, and people nostalgically quaff eggnog while partaking of goose and chestnuts, fruitcakes and mincemeat pies. I’ve always […]

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EMP Cookbook

Fall crop

This fall has been another excellent season for cookbooks. The ones I’ve been most excited about include Paula Wolfert’s The Food of Morocco, Jennifer McLagan’s Odd Bits, and Ed Behr’s The Art of Eating Cookbook. Those have all been on my wish list since long before they were released. There are a handful of others […]

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Beef Stew with Pickled Walnuts

Trotter Gear: Something gelatinous is a foot

It’s no secret that I’m a fan of the “fifth quarter” in meat cooking. Historically, the organs, heads, hooves and other unusual parts of food animals were the province of the poor, but nowadays these cuts are more likely to serve as a marker of one’s rarefied taste – an icon of “true foodieness.” Well […]

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Pea soup

Pease porridge hot…

Are there any dishes more Canadian than split pea soup? Certainly Canada isn’t the only place it can be found, but pea soup is definitely part of the fabric of Canadian, and especially Québécois, cuisine. I mean, the brand I grew up with was called Habitant! It’s a great dish for a region with a […]

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Whisky barrels

Friday Night Cocktail: John’s Private Cask No. 1

OK, so this isn’t a cocktail at all; it’s a whisky. Fall is whisky season, and sometimes all you need is a simple glass. I acquired this particular whisky last weekend while visiting the distillery, Kittling Ridge, for their “whisky weekend” event. Every fall for the past few years, they’ve released a new small-batch whisky […]

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Ruhlman's Twenty

Ruhlman’s Twenty

One of the many hats I wear is as a recipe tester for Michael Ruhlman on his last couple of books, first Ratio and now the upcoming Ruhlman’s Twenty. Throughout the testing process, hosted by the inimitable Marlene at Cook’s Korner, I got to see a number of the recipes in the book, but by […]

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Sous vide squid

Calamari: It’s not just for the deep-fryer anymore

For years, the only way I’d ever experienced squid was in its fried form – a form that has long been a favourite of mine and my husband’s. So I still remember the first time I ever had grilled squid, because it was so different from my previous experiences and so, so delicious. It was […]

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