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Risotto cakes

Risotto cakes

This is one of my favourite treats to make when I have leftover risotto. I just put the leftovers into a mold (usually a square or rectangular plastic sandwich keeper) and refrigerate them. Once they’re thoroughly chilled, usually by the next day, I unmold, cut to shape, bread, and shallow-fry until golden on the outside [...]

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English muffins

English muffins

The English muffin may be the most overlooked building block in eggs Benedict. Although there are many options for the base that undergirds the bacon and eggs, the English muffin is, to my mind, the most traditional. Unfortunately, they’re generally considered to be simply a starchy filler and a sponge to soak up extra hollandaise [...]

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Classics are classic for a reason

Classics are classic for a reason

My local butcher had a special on veal shank slices the other day, so I picked some up to make osso buco, even though I don’t usually associate braising with the dog days of summer. I made it a two-day process, searing, braising and chilling the meat on the first day, then de-fatting and reheating [...]

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A new cookbook

A new cookbook

I’m just back from a week away on Canada’s East Coast, where I picked up a copy of this cookbook, Fresh Canadian Bistro, by Craig Flinn of Chives restaurant in Halifax. I’m looking forward to browsing through it for some new recipe ideas!

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Bucatini all’amatriciana with tomato leaves

Bucatini all’amatriciana with tomato leaves

Thanks to some local friends whose garden was starting to look a little overgrown, I managed to lay my hands on some tomato leaves to cook with. I figured the best way to experiment with them was in a dish that already included tomatoes. My favourite go-to pasta sauce is amatriciana, which uses bacon and [...]

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Cooking with tomato leaves

Cooking with tomato leaves

This picture shows the tomato plants in my garden back when they were still healthy. Unfortunately, they’ve since succumbed to a fungal infection (fusarium wilt has been implicated) so we had to pull them all out.
Which is sad not just because it means I don’t get to eat the tomatoes, but also because I’d been [...]

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Canadian Bacon for Canada Day

Canadian Bacon for Canada Day

A couple of years ago, someone posted an interesting query to eGullet:
Is there any kind of fare that Torontans (if that’s a word) call their own, like St Louis BBQ, San Francisco cioppino, or Brooklyn pizza?
The answer on the thread was more or less unanimous: Toronto’s signature dish is, apparently, peameal bacon on a bun. [...]

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Peameal bacon: Into the brine

Peameal bacon: Into the brine

Over the next few weeks, I’m going to do a series of posts on the dish that, to me, represents the pinnacle of brunch: Eggs Benedict. And with Canada Day taking place this week, what better component to start with than peameal bacon, a.k.a. back bacon or Canadian bacon. (Though there is some debate on [...]

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Radishes: Beyond raw

Radishes: Beyond raw

Faced with an abundance of radishes, I set about skimming through my cooking library for recipes to make use of them, or at least ideas for a starting point. There were two pieces of information that kept cropping up. First, that there are three major kinds of radishes: red, Asian (such as Japanese daikon) and [...]

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Rhubarb, tart and crisp

Rhubarb, tart and crisp

If the tomato is everyone’s favourite vegetable-that’s-really-a-fruit, rhubarb should be everyone’s favourite fruit-that’s-really-a-vegetable. Especially in spring, when there are precious few other fruits available.
We inherited a small rhubarb patch with our house, but the key word is small. Shaded by several trees, and suffering frequent insect attacks, it produces enough for only one small pie. [...]

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