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Moroccan cooking is underappreciated, in my estimation. While couscous and merguez have, to a certain extent, become pantry staples, and tagines are far from unknown to even the most novice foodies, the cuisine as a whole is underrepresented in North America. I’ve taken an interest in Moroccan food for a long time – longer than […]

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KC BBQ sauce

Not-so-modern Modernist Cuisine: KC BBQ A-OK

One of the stops on my road trip across the US last month was Kansas City. Naturally, this meant we had to sample the local barbecue, which we did at a couple of locations, namely Jack Stack and Woodyard BBQ. We tried a range of the offerings, including brisket, “burnt ends,” and pork ribs, as […]

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Ice cream pie

Cornier and cornier: The other uses for Momofuku corn cookies

Having gone to the trouble and expense of making the Momofuku Milk Bar corn cookies, I figured I might as well make the Lucky Peach recipes that use them as an ingredient, too. After all, it’s not like I’m going to have a regular supply of these on hand at all times. The first of […]

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Freeze-dried corn

Acting corny: Momofuku Milk Bar corn cookies

I’ve been meaning to make the corn cookies from the second issue of Lucky Peach for a while now, but they somehow slid to the bottom of the to-do list until this weekend. I had even bought the freeze-dried corn for them – the only ingredient that was halfway challenging to obtain – and there […]

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Pickled Quail Eggs

Pickled quail eggs and vacation notice

I’m about to leave on vacation – a two-week road trip across the US to the West coast – so naturally I had to clean out my fridge a little bit before my departure. Buried in the back, I found some quail eggs that had been kicking around for too long. Rather than just throwing […]

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Pickled Peppers

What Peter Piper picked

(OK, so maybe it wasn’t a whole peck.) Lately I’ve been wondering about vinegar pickles. I have plenty of experience making fermented pickles, but very little making pickles with vinegar. Fermented pickles are straightforward – immerse any vegetables in a 5% brine; leave at cool room temperature for a couple of weeks – but the […]

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Home coffee roasting: Espresso blend

Most of the coffee I drink, I brew in a French press. But I do also have a relatively low-end espresso machine, which I use several days a week when I need a caffeinated afternoon pick-me-up. Of course, this means I don’t go through espresso as quickly as I do “regular” coffee. In some ways, […]

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Amped-up financiers

While macarons may still be my favourite use for extra egg whites, financiers have recently become a close second. For one thing, they’re a lot less finicky than macarons – and while finickiness is much of the macaron’s appeal, sometimes you just don’t want to go to the trouble. Both are based on egg whites […]

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Robusta beans

Robusta coffee

My friend Stuart McCook, a historian who studies coffee cultivation and blogs about it at Coffee Cultures, has been called an “apologist for Robusta coffee.” Robusta is a species of coffee plant (Coffea canephora) distinct from the more widely cultivated Arabica species (Coffea arabica). Robusta is estimated to make up anywhere from 20% to 30% […]

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Amaretti cookies

Amaretti cookies are essentially Italy’s answer to macarons. Their name is derived from the diminutive form of “amaro” (bitter), because they’re traditionally flavoured with bitter almonds (and currently with almond extract). Unlike macarons, which are usually sandwiched, amaretti are mostly served solo. They’re also baked to a crunchier texture, and can be crumbled and used […]

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