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English muffins

English muffins

The English muffin may be the most overlooked building block in eggs Benedict. Although there are many options for the base that undergirds the bacon and eggs, the English muffin is, to my mind, the most traditional. Unfortunately, they’re generally considered to be simply a starchy filler and a sponge to soak up extra hollandaise [...]

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How to fix a broken hollandaise sauce

How to fix a broken hollandaise sauce

The picture above shows a hollandaise sauce that’s about to break. Yes, I purposely broke a hollandaise sauce in order to write this post! And I did it with confidence, because I knew how easy it would be to fix. As you can see, the sauce is thick and starting to look shiny on the [...]

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How hollandaise works

How hollandaise works

The key to mastering hollandaise sauce is understanding emulsification. As you whisk the sauce, you’re separating the butterfat into very, very small droplets (called the “dispersed phase”), and spreading them out through a certain amount of water (called the “continuous phase”) so they can’t recombine. It’s the same thing you do when making mayonnaise, or [...]

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Hollandaise sauce

Hollandaise sauce

Eggs Benedict are a pretty flexible dish. You can switch out the English muffin for other baked goods, or potato pancakes, or even Portobello mushrooms. You can substitute smoked fish, or sausage patties, or vegetables like spinach (in the variation called eggs Florentine) for the back bacon. When it comes down to it, the foundation [...]

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Canadian Bacon for Canada Day

Canadian Bacon for Canada Day

A couple of years ago, someone posted an interesting query to eGullet:
Is there any kind of fare that Torontans (if that’s a word) call their own, like St Louis BBQ, San Francisco cioppino, or Brooklyn pizza?
The answer on the thread was more or less unanimous: Toronto’s signature dish is, apparently, peameal bacon on a bun. [...]

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Peameal bacon: Into the brine

Peameal bacon: Into the brine

Over the next few weeks, I’m going to do a series of posts on the dish that, to me, represents the pinnacle of brunch: Eggs Benedict. And with Canada Day taking place this week, what better component to start with than peameal bacon, a.k.a. back bacon or Canadian bacon. (Though there is some debate on [...]

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The reward at the bottom of your cocktail glass

The reward at the bottom of your cocktail glass

Cherry season is approaching again in the Niagara region. A Manhattan served to me recently by a friend with some very good homemade cocktail cherries (Me: “What kind of booze did you preserve them in?” Her: “I don’t remember!”) made me realize that I need to start planning my own batch of cocktail cherries for [...]

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As Canadian as mustard?

As Canadian as mustard?

If any condiment has a claim on being Canadian, I’d argue that it’s mustard.
Sure, people have been making mustard since ancient times, but look at how things stand today: Canada is the world’s largest exporter of mustard seed, and one of the top 5 producers overall. I think that’s enough to qualify the piquant hot [...]

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Dashi: The root of Japanese cooking

Dashi: The root of Japanese cooking

I’ve been cooking a lot of Japanese food this year, in preparation for an upcoming trip to Japan, and time and again I’ve come back to one observation: dashi is the heart and soul of Japanese cooking.
Dashi is to Japanese cuisine what veal stock is to classic French cuisine, only more so. The most common [...]

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Friday night cocktail: The Zombie

Friday night cocktail: The Zombie

With the weather being so unusually warm this spring, I’ve been drinking a lot of rum cocktails lately. Among rum drinks, none are tastier or more complicated than the family known as faux-Polynesian, or “Tiki,” drinks. And among Tiki drinks, none packs a bigger punch than the Zombie.
Originally devised by Don the Beachcomber in the [...]

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