No crying over spilt milk: Cereal milk truffles
Last weekend was the annual eGullet chocolate and confectionery workshop, held this year at Niagara College in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The first night of the workshop usually functions as a sort of “show and tell,” where the chocolatiers and confectioners who have gathered from across North America share samples of the treats they’ve been working on lately.
Having recently returned from my month of staging in Ottawa, I decided to pull out a recipe I picked up from Atelier’s pastry chef, the inimitable Michael Holland: truffles with a liquid milk centre. I was hoping it would be quite the surprise for the crowd that was there, and it turned out I was right.
The original recipe called simply for milk centres encapsulated in a 50/50 mix of cocoa butter and white chocolate, and dredged in crushed cereal. But I took the conceit (“breakfast truffles”) a step further by filling them with cereal milk. The results were pretty compelling, if I say so myself. When you crunch down on the chocolate walls, your mouth is immediately flooded with sweet, cereal-flavoured milk. Sometimes to a fault: I heard a couple of comments that the truffles were a bit too big to accommodate comfortably, and saw more than one person’s mouth overflow with the milk.
So how are they done? I started by making up a batch of cereal milk, then freezing it in spherical molds. (I was a bit worried that the added sugar would prevent them from freezing solid, but it didn’t.) Then I melted the chocolate and cocoa butter together, and dipped the frozen cereal milk spheres in it, allowing the first coat to solidify before adding a second coat and tossing the truffle into a bowl of crushed Froot Loops.