Archive | April, 2012
7. Foie Gras 2

Lunch at Eleven Madison Park

I’ve just returned from New York City, where I enjoyed a wonderful 4-hour lunch at Eleven Madison Park. As a rule, I don’t do restaurant reviews on my site. And what could I possibly say about EMP, except that it lived up to – and exceeded – my very high expectations? The food was creative, […]

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NatalieMacLeanBook2-CDN-resized

Book Review: “Unquenchable” by Natalie MacLean

In the opening chapter of her first book, Red, White and Drunk All Over, wine writer Natalie MacLean visits the famous Burgundy wine estate of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Her latest book, Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines, is predicated on the idea that the wine world is much broader than […]

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Finished lamb shank confit

Lamb shank confit: The results

When I decided to make lamb shank confit, the first question that occurred to me was, “What makes confit different from any other braise?” Once upon a time, I probably would have answered that it was the cooking medium, a confit being cooking in fat rather than a water-based liquid such as wine or stock. […]

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Lamb shank confit

Lamb shank confit

Earlier this week, I found myself with some extra lamb shanks, some rendered lamb fat, and some leftover curing mix from a recent batch of duck confit. There was only one thing to do: I coated the shanks with the salt mix, refrigerated them overnight, and rinsed them off and patted them dry. Then I […]

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Coffee Roast #3

Home-roasted coffee no. 3

With the return of warmer weather, I took some time last weekend to roast another batch of coffee with my heat gun. I do all my roasting outside so I don’t have to worry about containing the chaff, but that does kind of limit my options in the winter, even a mild winter like we […]

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Zabaglione

Sabayon: Egg-yolk foam

Everyone knows you can make a foam out of egg whites; that’s what meringue is. But did you know that egg yolks can foam too? It’s a little trickier, though. Yolks won’t foam without a little help in the form of some added water. And unlike egg white proteins, which can be destabilized by mechanical […]

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Grapefruits

Menu creation, repetition and repetitiveness

One of the challenges I always face when coming up with a menu for dinner parties like the one I had recently is avoiding too much repetition. This is especially true because I’m working with other people’s recipes, and I try to adhere to them as closely as I can, substituting ingredients only when I […]

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