The torch passes

I would be remiss in allowing to pass unremarked the end of the famous elBulli in its incarnation as a restaurant: its final service was this past Saturday night. Although I sadly never had the opportunity to dine at the restaurant, which was ranked number 1 in the world for 5 of the past 10 years, Ferran Adrià revolutionized the idea of what is possible in the kitchen over his 24 years as head chef there.

This year, the torch passed from Adrià to elBulli alumnus René Redzepi, as his Noma was honoured with the title of best restaurant in the world for 2010. With his emphasis on hyper-local – often foraged – ingredients, Redzepi is in his own way redefining what is possible in the kitchen today. In this video, you can see an example of how Redzepi draws on his environment to design a dish.

Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cuisine is available from Phaidon.com.

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