No crying over spilt milk: Cereal milk truffles

Last weekend was the annual eGullet chocolate and confectionery workshop, held this year at Niagara College in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The first night of the workshop usually functions as a sort of “show and tell,” where the chocolatiers and confectioners who have gathered from across North America share samples of the treats they’ve been working on [...]

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Tournant

One of the funny things about being a stagiaire is that you don’t usually work a specific station. One minute you’re trimming elk tenderloins, the next you’re making an Italian meringue for buttercream. This certainly has its drawbacks: without being assigned to a particular set of dishes, it can feel like you have no “ownership” [...]

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Kitchen lingo

As a translator, I continue to be fascinated by the specific language that develops in kitchens. Lately, I’ve been noticing a tendency to take nouns and turn them into verbs. I once had a lengthy discussion with a friend who’s a server about when a table of diners should be “breaded.” (After which, presumably, they’re [...]

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On the road

I’m currently on the road, in Ottawa (where I enjoyed the “grilled cheese sloppy joe” pictured above at Art Is In bakery). I’ll be here for the entire month of March, staging at a number of restaurants. Rather than putting my blog on hold for that time, though, my goal is to try and post [...]

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Bâtard! Bouchon Bakery bread

After the success of the other Bouchon Bakery recipes I tried, and in light of my efforts to bake bread more regularly in order to better understand the process, I thought it would be interesting to try the Bouchon Bakery “Master Recipe” for bread. Nearly all the breads in the book call for a pre-ferment, either [...]

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Friday Night Cocktail: Airmail

I don’t make cocktails with sparkling wine very often, because good sparkling wine can be expensive, cocktails alone rarely use the whole bottle, and it tends to lose its fizz too fast if stored. But sometimes you just need the effervescence that only sparkling wine can provide. We first tried the Airmail cocktail at Beretta [...]

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Baking with Bouchon Bakery

My husband gave me a copy of Bouchon Bakery as a gift in December, bringing my total collection of Thomas Keller Restaurant Group cookbooks up to four. After opening it, I wasted no time in diving in. The book approaches baked goods, both pâtisserie and boulangerie (with a little confectionery thrown in for good measure) in [...]

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Pressure-cooked oatmeal

Until now, I have always made oatmeal exclusively with rolled oats; although I know connoisseurs swear by the steel-cut variety, it always seemed like too much of a time investment for a breakfast food. (And yes, I know I’m saying this as someone who has cooked his own English muffins for eggs Benedict.) But if [...]

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’nother nabe

Another recent nabe that I made, this one called the “Akita Hunter Hot Pot.” The defining characteristic of this hot pot is a rice preparation called kiritanpo. It’s made by cooking rice, mashing it up, forming it into a cylinder (around a chopstick or similar) and grilling or broiling it before adding it to the [...]

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Bread-baking and the value of repetition

I’ve been giving a lot of thought lately to the value of repetition in the kitchen, of doing the same task over and over and over again. Repeating it until you’re completely sick of doing it, then repeating it some more until you can do it in your sleep. And, ideally, becoming a little bit [...]

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Friday Night Cocktail: The Esquire Formula

It may sound like the title of a bad spy novel, but the “Esquire formula” is really just shorthand for an interesting “universal” cocktail ratio proposed by Esquire magazine. The idea is that, armed with this ratio and one secret ingredient, you can make a tasty cocktail from pretty much any other ingredients you have [...]

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Memories of Chiang Mai: Khao soi with homemade coconut milk

I spent a good chunk of December in Southeast Asia, specifically Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Hanoi. Needless to say, we had a variety of delicious foods, but one of the dishes that stood out for me the most was the Chiang Mai specialty of khao soi. Khao soi is part of the continuum of Asian [...]

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Nabemono for New Year’s

In keeping with my annual tradition of starting off the year on a Japanese-cuisine kick, I made my first nabe of the year last week – a fitting dinner given how cold and snowy it’s been. I turned to Japanese Hot Pots, which is the indispensable reference on the subject, and used the recipe for [...]

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